Yesterday's experiments having been a bust, Chucho and I set off for the beach. I had a grumbling in my belly after a couple of morning movements and I was all of a sudden feeling weak and hungry. Once we got to the sand, I wasn't motivated to paddle out and I felt as though my mojo had been sapped.
I unleashed the beast, feeling optimistic about his ticking bark bomb lasting a bit longer thanks to a couple of doggos on the beach.
There were some massive ones breaking. It looked like Pipeline on some sets. Unmakeable Pipeline, but it resembled Pipeline nonetheless.
I snuck out in between sets and was sitting away from the ravenous pack.
I only caught three memorable waves. The first was a left which I thought might barrel but didn't really. I went up and did a snap on it but ate it.
The next wave I caught pretty late and I got hung up on the lip. I stomped the airdrop down, leaned way back on my tailpad and got a short cover-up. It let me out and I was a little off-balance. My trailing arm hit the lip on the way out. I turned and obliterated the oncoming section. I celebrated by falling onto my back before my fins could reconnect.
I caught another quick left and got in the barrel. I contorted myself as small as I could get and just couldn't squeeze in there.
I unleashed the beast, feeling optimistic about his ticking bark bomb lasting a bit longer thanks to a couple of doggos on the beach.
There were some massive ones breaking. It looked like Pipeline on some sets. Unmakeable Pipeline, but it resembled Pipeline nonetheless.
I snuck out in between sets and was sitting away from the ravenous pack.
I only caught three memorable waves. The first was a left which I thought might barrel but didn't really. I went up and did a snap on it but ate it.
The next wave I caught pretty late and I got hung up on the lip. I stomped the airdrop down, leaned way back on my tailpad and got a short cover-up. It let me out and I was a little off-balance. My trailing arm hit the lip on the way out. I turned and obliterated the oncoming section. I celebrated by falling onto my back before my fins could reconnect.
I caught another quick left and got in the barrel. I contorted myself as small as I could get and just couldn't squeeze in there.
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