The cleaning ladies' schedule has been retooled and they're now coming a day earlier than usual. Everything is upside down in the tourism biz here due to the budding revolution to which I've alluded in past posts...
I left the doggo in their care and told them to leave him in the condo with only the screen door closed. I told them I'd be responsible for any damage.
I ran most of the way down to the beach and when I got there I realized it'd grown, just as the forecasts had predicted. It was about double-overhead on the sets.
Some waves looked perfect but when they had a rider with whom one could judge makeability, you could tell they were just teases.
There was a massive pelican standing on the beach facing inland, with one wing semi-splayed. It looked like something was wrong with it. I thought it might have been a sign to paddle out there but I bailed on it for a chance at bigger waves.
I had a bit of an angle on a smaller one and this Japanese lady sized me up and decided to go about fifteen feet down the line. I leaned way back upon seeing this and somehow managed to put my buttcheek on my fin, thankfully only gingerly. I was literally and figuratively butthurt she did that but not worth exchanging words.
I was in position for this burly left. I had a little bit of an edge on the corner, but it looked grisly just past that. I went only because this older guy was staring me down and I thought he would just go on any wave on which I paddled after that.
The drop was an insane rush on my 5'11". It took everything I had to bottom turn into the pit and apparently in my enthusiasm/terror I put too much weight on my front foot and I literally tail-slid longboard style as the massive lip j u s t tapped me on the back of the head. BUMMER. I would have had a sick view even though the thing wasn't going to let me out.
I had something I don't think I've ever had happen in my surf career. This good-sized left came and this Brazilian dreadlocked guy on my inside was paddling. I said, "Dale!" (most Brazilians speak a little Spanish, or so I've read). He pulled back and I made some noise and went myself. I dropped down into the pit and got barreled but the reason I told him to go is it was a disgusting closeout and I paid the price.
All-in-all I saw two guys make tubes. One was in the absolutely perfect spot and the other guy was just a barrel maestro with his pumping in the pit.
I happened to hitch a ride with a friend in his golf cart and when I got to the pool area of our complex Chucho was there with our former neighbors, who are leaving Nicaragua for their native Colombia.
I left the doggo in their care and told them to leave him in the condo with only the screen door closed. I told them I'd be responsible for any damage.
I ran most of the way down to the beach and when I got there I realized it'd grown, just as the forecasts had predicted. It was about double-overhead on the sets.
Some waves looked perfect but when they had a rider with whom one could judge makeability, you could tell they were just teases.
There was a massive pelican standing on the beach facing inland, with one wing semi-splayed. It looked like something was wrong with it. I thought it might have been a sign to paddle out there but I bailed on it for a chance at bigger waves.
I had a bit of an angle on a smaller one and this Japanese lady sized me up and decided to go about fifteen feet down the line. I leaned way back upon seeing this and somehow managed to put my buttcheek on my fin, thankfully only gingerly. I was literally and figuratively butthurt she did that but not worth exchanging words.
I was in position for this burly left. I had a little bit of an edge on the corner, but it looked grisly just past that. I went only because this older guy was staring me down and I thought he would just go on any wave on which I paddled after that.
The drop was an insane rush on my 5'11". It took everything I had to bottom turn into the pit and apparently in my enthusiasm/terror I put too much weight on my front foot and I literally tail-slid longboard style as the massive lip j u s t tapped me on the back of the head. BUMMER. I would have had a sick view even though the thing wasn't going to let me out.
I had something I don't think I've ever had happen in my surf career. This good-sized left came and this Brazilian dreadlocked guy on my inside was paddling. I said, "Dale!" (most Brazilians speak a little Spanish, or so I've read). He pulled back and I made some noise and went myself. I dropped down into the pit and got barreled but the reason I told him to go is it was a disgusting closeout and I paid the price.
 |
| The aforementioned Brazilian looked a lot like the lead singer of P.O.D. |
All-in-all I saw two guys make tubes. One was in the absolutely perfect spot and the other guy was just a barrel maestro with his pumping in the pit.
I happened to hitch a ride with a friend in his golf cart and when I got to the pool area of our complex Chucho was there with our former neighbors, who are leaving Nicaragua for their native Colombia.
No comments:
Post a Comment