My aforementioned neighbor came to my door while I was studying for my MLO test and said he was going to go check it. He came back and said his contact at the beach reported chest-plus-high waves. I grabbed my board and Chucho (Raquel and the girls were at the beach for a girls-only get-together) and we walked down.
The wind was pretty strong offshore, though not gusting and howling like it has been for the past couple of days. I put in my go-plugs (ear plugs) and waded out.
I violated one of my surfing tenets on this day, for I fraternized with a sponger. Brian revealed his true self and while I'm proud of him for the courage that took, I couldn't shake the piercing glares from other stand-up surfers.
I'm taking a little bit longer to get up on my board, definitely something I need to work on, though I did nail every drop. They were all late due to the wind.
I blew one wave by trying to mini-pump upon take off. The wind snagged my board and I couldn't descend again.
I had a nice, long left but I was off-balance for most of it. I managed to hit it but was too off-kilter to have a shot.
I got teeth-chattering cold. I know, I know, it's not cold here but the relative wind chill was nasty as the sun was going down.
The wind was pretty strong offshore, though not gusting and howling like it has been for the past couple of days. I put in my go-plugs (ear plugs) and waded out.
I violated one of my surfing tenets on this day, for I fraternized with a sponger. Brian revealed his true self and while I'm proud of him for the courage that took, I couldn't shake the piercing glares from other stand-up surfers.
I'm taking a little bit longer to get up on my board, definitely something I need to work on, though I did nail every drop. They were all late due to the wind.
I blew one wave by trying to mini-pump upon take off. The wind snagged my board and I couldn't descend again.
I had a nice, long left but I was off-balance for most of it. I managed to hit it but was too off-kilter to have a shot.
I got teeth-chattering cold. I know, I know, it's not cold here but the relative wind chill was nasty as the sun was going down.
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