I had to abort my first attempt at leaving the house with my board. My eldest decided she does in fact like me and started crying, begging me not to go. I solemnly put my board back. I ate my Frosted Flakes and figured that was it. My wife got up and then she told me to go.
By the time I got down there it was well past first light. There was one guy checking it but no one in the water. It looked pretty bleak out there with some almost-skimmable waves breaking a little too fast. I headed towards Wyoming, the break north of Colorado.
A couple of guys in wetsuit tops paddled out into the nothingness at Colorado, in what I assume is a faith play. A rideable set finally broke at Wyoming and I went out to my very own peak!
It was not to last, as one, then another, logger paddled out. Sets were inconsistent, but chest-high and they had more than a drop! I caught a racy left on which I bottom-turned and was too late to do much, but watched a foot from the barrel to see if I could have made it. The answer is yes, for about two seconds before the section in front collapsed.
I caught another left and tried to get in the barrel but couldn't fit.
I tried my luck on my backhand. I was really late on my first, made even later by the gusting winds. I descended and swung around, I poked my board up at it and was able to come around but I for whatever reason aborted even though it felt as though I'd made it with my noise pointed in the right direction.
A second right and I tried really hard to pump, I got one in and on my second I was hung up on the blazing lip. I was catapulted face first into the trough and was really lucky not to have hit bottom considering once I stood up I was in hip-deep water.
My final right: redemption! I pumped once and hit it as the wave sped off.
I caught a final closeout in.
By the time I got down there it was well past first light. There was one guy checking it but no one in the water. It looked pretty bleak out there with some almost-skimmable waves breaking a little too fast. I headed towards Wyoming, the break north of Colorado.
A couple of guys in wetsuit tops paddled out into the nothingness at Colorado, in what I assume is a faith play. A rideable set finally broke at Wyoming and I went out to my very own peak!
It was not to last, as one, then another, logger paddled out. Sets were inconsistent, but chest-high and they had more than a drop! I caught a racy left on which I bottom-turned and was too late to do much, but watched a foot from the barrel to see if I could have made it. The answer is yes, for about two seconds before the section in front collapsed.
I caught another left and tried to get in the barrel but couldn't fit.
I tried my luck on my backhand. I was really late on my first, made even later by the gusting winds. I descended and swung around, I poked my board up at it and was able to come around but I for whatever reason aborted even though it felt as though I'd made it with my noise pointed in the right direction.
A second right and I tried really hard to pump, I got one in and on my second I was hung up on the blazing lip. I was catapulted face first into the trough and was really lucky not to have hit bottom considering once I stood up I was in hip-deep water.
My final right: redemption! I pumped once and hit it as the wave sped off.
I caught a final closeout in.
No comments:
Post a Comment