I hit the road on my bike at 5:33 and was in the water by 5:46. The bike allowed me the luxury of more surf time, but also a great way to survey the surf. Raquel needed me back at home by 655 (post wetsuit wash). Pressed for time, I decided on S. Mavs after seeing a big set break.
I locked up the bike and paddled out. I had a bitch of a time catching my first wave and got a bit stressed given my time constraint. Eventually I caught a left that wasn't catch-upable. It was just too damn fast.
I caught another left and tucked my knees in as I hit it. Unfortunately I'd approached it too laterally and decided to bail as I was being pitched over.
The swell is on the way down and the pickings will be slim. I enjoyed this run of ok waves, especially considering we're dealing with bad winds for the most part.
I locked up the bike and paddled out. I had a bitch of a time catching my first wave and got a bit stressed given my time constraint. Eventually I caught a left that wasn't catch-upable. It was just too damn fast.
I caught another left and tucked my knees in as I hit it. Unfortunately I'd approached it too laterally and decided to bail as I was being pitched over.
The swell is on the way down and the pickings will be slim. I enjoyed this run of ok waves, especially considering we're dealing with bad winds for the most part.
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