We had classic Spring winds on it today, but I was excited that this would keep the crowds from swarming in.
I was the first to paddle out, not a soul in the water. I had sought solace in my solitude and BAM! I had it.
It lasted all of eight minutes.
The waves were about as bad as expected. I caught several lefts which either had no juice or would close out.
I caught a right which scooped me up late. I made the drop and my loins tingled as I bottom turned. This one had a line. I drew my line a little wider than I should have, and though I eviscerated the wave, I sank into water with no speed. Had I gone more vertical I may have descended again and completed the maneuver.
I went in after an hour. I counted fifteen heads in my vicinity as I left.
I was the first to paddle out, not a soul in the water. I had sought solace in my solitude and BAM! I had it.
It lasted all of eight minutes.
The waves were about as bad as expected. I caught several lefts which either had no juice or would close out.
I caught a right which scooped me up late. I made the drop and my loins tingled as I bottom turned. This one had a line. I drew my line a little wider than I should have, and though I eviscerated the wave, I sank into water with no speed. Had I gone more vertical I may have descended again and completed the maneuver.
I went in after an hour. I counted fifteen heads in my vicinity as I left.
No comments:
Post a Comment