The swell was on the way down, so I was prepared to not have nearly as good a session. Upon arriving at the shore, I saw clean, somewhat fat waves, with a small army of heads on it.
I paddled out a bit south and let the chips fall where they may. Within minutes of paddling out I realized I was in the midst of a Surf PE session. All these guys were manic out there, paddling for just about everything.
I must have been in the right spot because I was catching a lot of waves. I had only about forty minutes to be out there due to one of Raquel's conference calls and I maximized my wave-to-minute ratio.
All told, I caught about eight or nine waves. A lot of them fattened up almost immediately, though I do remember doing a sick slash to bail which indubitably felt cooler than it looked. On a right, I also did a comprehensive wrap-around cutty.
I left the water satisfied. Unfortunately, this was the beginning of what I'm calling my longest cold of all time, which kept me out of the water for the rest of the month.
No comments:
Post a Comment