After yesterday's sunset skimboarding session, I realized the waves were surfable. The crowd had died down also, so I was planning on surfing the next day.
As I walked down to the beach, I saw that the street lights were still on, meaning I'd gotten an early start. The marine layer was up, so that should make the water a little warmer. The offshore wind was stiff and I wondered if maybe it was too strong.
I walked close to halfway to pier after descending down the Wisconsin ramp. I saw what appeared to be a barrel section, though it was difficult to be sure because of the angle of the swell.
After walking for a few minutes, I saw no other waves to keep the case open. I circled back to Wisconsin and paddled out, seeing a few fun ones out there.
As I paddled out, I was excited to see some shoulder-high sets break. There was no one out within three hundred yards of me. It was GLORIOUS.
I paddled out and perched and within three minutes I got a pretty nice wave. I caught it a little late and was concerned about the sectioning lip five yards ahead of me, I swooped around it, rose up to pump at least four times and as I approached the oncoming section, I compressed my body into a solid bottom turn.
I unloaded on the section and felt my fins go free for an instant, then reconnected. I don't know exactly what went wrong, but I think I wasn't ready for such a quick transition from halfway airborne to what devolved into a brusque cutback. If I'd shifted my weight to the front of my board, I could have turned it into a sick roundhouse cutty.
The waves kept coming. It was really consistent and still not a soul near me.
I caught a right that looked juicy. Unfortunately, I dug a rail as soon as I started leaning into a bottom turn. I let out a frustrated roar as I stumbled over the back.
My wave of the day came about twenty minutes of fading off waves and being a little too inside for the relative mackers. I pumped a couple of times right off the bat, then rose up and SMASHED the section. The wave was dying out and I laid into a slash, which showed similar signs of life.
The waves then went into fatness mode. It got very inconsistent and I knew I'd gotten the best of the morning. I packed it in, making a mental note to paddle out even earlier tomorrow.