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Tuesday, September 3, 2013

8.30.13 My Cousin Tom arrives with some Surf in tow

My cousin and best man Tommy arrived last night and was excited about surfing.  He had not gone since I saw him in El Salvador over a year ago.  He lives in DC and the waves within driving distance leave a lot to be desired, unless we're talking about hurricane season.

As we walked to the surf, I extolled tales of what he might expect.  Considering his last session was in El Salvador, I may have overblown it a bit.

The waves did not disappoint.  What normally would have been lazy bumps tripping over themselves every ten or fifteen yards was in fact a sight I hadn't seen since July 20th, and before that, winter.  A wave would peak, throw, then peel for 20+yards at a time before closing out.

I caught easily a dozen waves, the most I've caught in one session in a LONG time.  It was a combination of consistency, lack of people, jonesing after a long lull in swell, and having my cousin Tom in town.

Waves that stick in my memory include a pretty long floater to finish off a left.  Another one is a sick hit I did on a left and threw a good amount of spray.

You'll have to excuse my lack of memory from such a seemingly memorable session, but I've surfed so many times since this that my short-term memory is waterlogged (ha!)

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