The waves were a little bigger this day, and I was pushing it on this rising swell on the baby board.
Unfortunately, the waves were still somewhat inconsistent and shifty. I had plenty of get up, then jump off waves I couldn't catch up to.
Finally, about an hour into the session, I spotted a steep peak headed towards me. I didn't have to paddle laterally, I was in a great spot. In fact, I would classify my paddling as slovenly, up until the last couple of paddles before I stood up.
I descended down a beautiful steep chest-high section, pumped, super-pumped, then pumped halfway down the face and then BOOSTED off the oncoming section. I felt the board detach slightly from my feet, despite the wind's efforts to keep my board and me together.
It was the most air I'd caught since a sunset session in El Salvador last year, but with a similar result, unfortunately.
"If the best surfer in the water is the one having the most fun, Eddie P would be a promising amateur who eventually burns out and is forced to perform 'favors' for surf wax" -Anonymous
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