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Tuesday, May 21, 2013

5.21.13 Impromptu Grandview Sesh Thanks to Chance Meeting w/ Frank

I'd checked Oside and to call it surfable would've been generous.  Lazy, spilling waves were being turned ugly by the S wind.

Since it'd taken me so long to drive home yesterday, I refused to take the freeway.  I also hoped to come across a more surfable spot. 

Ponto showed a good set as I whizzed past, but there were easily two dozen heads on it.

I was going to check D Street and call it a no-go, but I decided to go to Grandview.  I checked it and was unimpressed by what I saw.  I saw something decent at Avocado's, but it was really inconsistent.  I waffled, then decided to head to D.  On my way to my ride, I heard someone call my name and it was my dad's buddy Frank.  I'd never surfed with him so I decided to paddle out with him for the hell of it.

My first wave was a left, that looked to be pretty fun.  As I popped up, I noticed there was a lot of water moving around on it.  Unfortunately, there was someone paddling out right in my way about ten yards away.  I descended down the face in an attempt to squeeze past him, but the chunkiness of the wave didn't allow for much maneuvering.  I did a fly-away out the back.

It took a solid twenty minutes for me to catch my next wave and it was about head-high.  I was salivating.  I descended and just as I transitioned my weight onto my heels a cross-chop must've hit and sent me tumbling ass-first into the water, frustrated.  NOOOOOOO!

A LONG lull later and I had my shot at redemption on another right.  I bottom turned hard, picked my spot and hit it, but I must've put too much weight into it for its lack of slope.  I hadn't done a turn this hard since Punta Roca, so maybe my muscle memory expected more push-back?  I sailor-dived.

Another long lull later, I was on a left on which I got a lot of speed on.  A guy paddling sideways toward me hooted me on it.  I passed him and went up to collect my reward, a meaty hit section.  Only there wasn't one.  I had bottom-turned sharply with the expectation of a power section and it was WWEEAAKK!! I threw a little spray and just kind of stood there as the swell continued towards its demise without me.

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