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Sunday, May 19, 2013

5.16.13 Tiny Turtles w/ Aaron

Aaron told me he was bagging lefts and right (ha!) all day the last couple of sessions and finally gave me enough notice once the swell was on the way down.

I met him on the 101 at 545, we suited up and went.  As is normally the case with an Aaron sesh, the waves were small.

There was no one out as we paddled out, basking in the warmer-than-expected water.

We each caught a couple of waves.  Aaron was able to fit some turns in, but I had a hard time getting going on mine.

Eventually, it got downright crowded.  The vibe was friendly, and I shared smiles and hellos with several strangers, except for one person.  I was first made aware of his existence when he paddled for a set wave, pearled, and over-corrected diagonally, eating it right in the maw of one of the heavier waves of the day (MAYBE 4').

This guy paddled for everything and he didn't care if you had priority.  Case in point:  I was in position for a sick one.  I was pretty late on it, but did well on the takeoff.  To my left, paddling furiously on the shoulder is Mr. "Aggressively Sucking", as Aaron affectionately monikered him.  Luckily for me and my noggin, he couldn't catch up.  I pumped once then laid into a roundhouse cutty.  Unfortunately, the margin of error was so thin that I threw spray and ate it as my nose pointed towards the beach.

That was the extent of the excitement for the day.  It was my first time seeing Aaron in over ten months and my first time surfing with him in cold water since the very first entry to this blog, August 2011.

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