After canvassing the coast for the better part of an hour, we made Pipes our last check. Forrest really wanted to get in the water, but I wasn't too amped on the tiny waves. Since Forrest had driven and gas prices were so high, I finally relented and told him we could surf if he really wanted to. I didn't expect him to accept my challenge.
While suiting up, I silently bemoaned my decision to throw myself on the mercy of Forrest's surf whims.
I had my shortboard with me this time, after longing for it for the majority of the previous day's session.
I took my time paddling out and the first duckdive was a dooz. Whatever warmth the Santa Ana day had bestowed upon me was immediately taken from me, to return only after my thaw-out shower later that day.
It was a gorgeous day with not a cloud in the sky. With any decent swell, we'd have a classic winter day on our hands. Of course, if the conditions were good, there couldn't be any swell, so we were stuck picking up whatever scraps were coming in.
Every fifteen minutes or so, a two-wave set would come in. I was lucky enough to be in position for one of these just after perching. It was a fast right that almost immediately closed out. I attempted to flop over it, but I got caught in the lip and slammed into the trough harder than I expected.
About ten minutes later, I spotted what appeared to be two young wahines paddling our way. It turned out one was a dude. The girl he was with was wearing a wetsuit set-up not often seen outside of Hawai'i. It was a one-piece wetsuit with a bottom that was shaped like a bikini bottom, leaving the legs and butt exposed. I felt like such a puss in my (albeit leaky) 4/3.
They paddled out after us and went in before us, and I found out why on the walk up.
I caught a left and pumped a couple of times before attempting to ball myself up small enough so as to get tunnel vision from the microscopic barrel that was about to throw. It hit me in the base of the skull and I called it a day.
On the way up, we saw the dude who to my estimation had received a blow to the head from his longboard. He had blood streaks over his face. He was being looked after by the girl and some other guy, so we bailed.
This is shaping up to be the worst winter in my surfing career. Stay tuned...
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