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Monday, October 8, 2012

10.6.12 Avocado's with Missed-It-Mike

D Street was fun the previous day, but on a Saturday I would only surf there if it was to pay off a bet.  We checked my somewhat secret shorebreak spot and it wasn't working.  We decided to check Avocado's (no need to check Grandview on a Satruday) and we saw something decent, so down the steps we went.

On my first wave of the day, I caught a left on which I pumped quickly.  I went up for a hit, and reflecting on the inner monologue pep talk I'd given myself on the ride over, made an effort to stay over my board more.  I hit it with a diagonal trajectory and did a better job than I normally do on the hit.  I ALMOST pulled it, but God had other plans for me at that time, presumably for me to roll around in the whitewash, sans board.

I had a lot of middling waves on which I'd pump and get no reward for my efforts, including a screamer that I went forever on only to have it mush over.

The crowds were steadily building and the foam-to-rider ratio was reaching critical levels.  I was in position and paddled hard for the wave of the day when a guy on a log to my inside decided he didn't want to mess up his hair by duckdiving out of my way.  I pulled back, bummed.  The guy apologized and I told him not to worry about it, but deep down, I was bummed.

I had to go in after about forty-five minutes due to a client appointment in Vista, which ended up cancelling due to illness.  Bah...!

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