We checked out D Street and it blew, so we headed south to try to catch more of the predominantly NW swell. If MD's didn't work, we would hit up NoTePads as a last resort. MD's was working far better than we expected, so we were out thar.
While suiting up, we couldn't believe our luck. There was no one out at the peak we had our eye on.
My first wave was a left that was good for a couple of pumps before I was done, reminding me of my performance in other areas of life.
My next wave had a steeper and longer line to it. I pumped a few times and timed my hit well, right into the frothy pre-explosion, throwing a good amount of spray, but once again leaning too far back to make it.
My third wave and left was a quick one which appeared to be throwing out a bit. I went for a rare for me closeout floater. My style was sick, but style doesn't really matter if you don't pull the maneuver. It appears I strayed too hard oceanside, when I should've been leaning a wee bit more shoreside.
I broke my streak of lefts with my next wave. I leaned down into the face, straining to see past the early morning glare. I should've kept my eyes shut, as there was nothing to see, unfortunately.
Back into the lefts! But it was just a closeout standing island pull-out, a freight train closeout barrel..
My last wave was disappointing. A right came and it appeared to have a bit of a runway, but it chubbed up and dashed my hopes of a fast ride. I half-heartedly pumped up to try and get some speed, but it was just too fat.
Unfortunately, our excitement at the beginning of the session appeared to be unfounded and our initial pre-stoke left us feeling hollow...
No comments:
Post a Comment