In essence this wasn't the most fun session.
I took advantage of the ladies cleaning our condo (and most importantly, watching Chucho) and got out there.
It was the abyss of the low tide.
My first wave was a left. It looked super wedgy as I was catching it but as I was bottom turning there was nothing there so I sailor dove off of it.
I pulled back from SOOOOOO many closeouts for about an hour with the odd would-have-gone, dude-already-on-it wave sprinkled in.
Eventually I caught a right and tucked in. I was immediately surrounded in the barrel. I felt it pinching shut and I corrected my trajectory a little towards the wave, being careful not to touch it with my leading arm so as not to stall. The thing was tight and I overcorrected into it and got slammed over the falls. I instinctively bellowed gutturally and covered my head with my arms. My top half was left unscathed but I did get a decent shinner from my board's rail.
About fifteen minutes later I caught a right. This one I was able to pump on and get tons of speed. As I bottom turned I got a similar feeling to that barrel wave from half a month ago and felt like I was running out of runway to make my turn. I transferred my weight brusquely as the lip hit my board and I got hung up. I started to descend, nose-down and nothing but air in the way of a two-foot drop into the detonating trough. I bailed but didn't kick my board out enough. I had a quick vision of face-butting my board but somehow I didn't even touch it.
About a half-hour later I caught another right, did a quicker bottom turn and didn't go all of the way up the wave as it surprised me by breaking sooner than expected. I pulled out of that just fine and the wave closed out. As I jumped off my board I made the mistake of contorting my body in such a way as to land on me nutsack.
I took advantage of the ladies cleaning our condo (and most importantly, watching Chucho) and got out there.
It was the abyss of the low tide.
My first wave was a left. It looked super wedgy as I was catching it but as I was bottom turning there was nothing there so I sailor dove off of it.
I pulled back from SOOOOOO many closeouts for about an hour with the odd would-have-gone, dude-already-on-it wave sprinkled in.
Eventually I caught a right and tucked in. I was immediately surrounded in the barrel. I felt it pinching shut and I corrected my trajectory a little towards the wave, being careful not to touch it with my leading arm so as not to stall. The thing was tight and I overcorrected into it and got slammed over the falls. I instinctively bellowed gutturally and covered my head with my arms. My top half was left unscathed but I did get a decent shinner from my board's rail.
About fifteen minutes later I caught a right. This one I was able to pump on and get tons of speed. As I bottom turned I got a similar feeling to that barrel wave from half a month ago and felt like I was running out of runway to make my turn. I transferred my weight brusquely as the lip hit my board and I got hung up. I started to descend, nose-down and nothing but air in the way of a two-foot drop into the detonating trough. I bailed but didn't kick my board out enough. I had a quick vision of face-butting my board but somehow I didn't even touch it.
About a half-hour later I caught another right, did a quicker bottom turn and didn't go all of the way up the wave as it surprised me by breaking sooner than expected. I pulled out of that just fine and the wave closed out. As I jumped off my board I made the mistake of contorting my body in such a way as to land on me nutsack.
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