The doggie and I trudged south to the beach. He walked with the gait of a riding horse walking towards his saddler with a heavyset rider-to-be looking on in anticipation.
We made it to the beach and I took off his leash and hung it on a tree. I told him to stay where he was on the sand. I stole glances at him while paddling out and he had his gaze and antennae fixed upon me. I made it out quickly and kept looking for him over my shoulder. I'd see him about 80% of the time as sometimes he would be chest-deep in water and I couldn't see him.
My first wave was a right, as was my second. It was a quickly breaking wave and I aborted through the barrel I'd entered Quasimodo-style. I got a painful pat on the back as a penalty from the wave.
There were lots of big beautiful barrels breaking. I didn't see anyone make one. They were all getting either swallowed up or pinched.
My last wave had a really critical takeoff. I got hung up on the lip ever so slightly. I was committed and I pearled hard. I half-jumped/was half-catapulted and comically felt my legs trying to run out of it (as one would when one blows it on a skateboard). My non-messiah status was proven by my painful introduction into the water.
The dog had been trotting along and I heard a warning bark. I was worried he was going to bail and run away as he did once while here in Nicaragua. As I caught a wave in, he was about fifty yards away from me investigating this portly older man. This was presumably because he thought it was me which made me take a long look in the mirror when we made it back to the condo.
We made it to the beach and I took off his leash and hung it on a tree. I told him to stay where he was on the sand. I stole glances at him while paddling out and he had his gaze and antennae fixed upon me. I made it out quickly and kept looking for him over my shoulder. I'd see him about 80% of the time as sometimes he would be chest-deep in water and I couldn't see him.
My first wave was a right, as was my second. It was a quickly breaking wave and I aborted through the barrel I'd entered Quasimodo-style. I got a painful pat on the back as a penalty from the wave.
There were lots of big beautiful barrels breaking. I didn't see anyone make one. They were all getting either swallowed up or pinched.
My last wave had a really critical takeoff. I got hung up on the lip ever so slightly. I was committed and I pearled hard. I half-jumped/was half-catapulted and comically felt my legs trying to run out of it (as one would when one blows it on a skateboard). My non-messiah status was proven by my painful introduction into the water.
The dog had been trotting along and I heard a warning bark. I was worried he was going to bail and run away as he did once while here in Nicaragua. As I caught a wave in, he was about fifty yards away from me investigating this portly older man. This was presumably because he thought it was me which made me take a long look in the mirror when we made it back to the condo.
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