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Friday, April 11, 2014

4.9.14 A No-Go Denied at South Mavs

I walked down to the beach, following my new rule of not checking the cams/reports and experiencing the conditions, however shitty they may be, organically.

I stood somewhat slackjawed at the abundance of absolute nothingness that was displayed before me.  The waves were very small, 1-2'.  Three minutes of me checking it later and I hear a slight honk from one of the cars.  It's a guy in a blue coupe with a surfboard in the reclined passenger seat and he's giving the conditions a very animated thumbs down.  As with most human beings, I let others' assessments guide my own, and briefly considered doing the walk of shame back to my house in a dry wetsuit.

Every so often, a little wave would pop up with a little bit of a shoulder.  I had to really think about this, as waves look bigger and better from elevation. (just ask Laird Hamilton about Nazare).  I saw something that pushed me over the ledge and I bounded down the stairs to the beach and paddled out.

The absolute best part of the session was having it all to myself.   There were no heads out within a hundred yards of me in any direction.  It was glorious.

The waves surprised me by being punchier than they looked.  I was catching a few waves on which I could stay for a while, though I wasn't doing much.

My best wave arrived in the form of a left on which I was able to do a surprisingly solid snap.  I noticed I opened my chest up to the beach as I was doing it and will definitely be focusing on that on future frontside snaps...

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