Yesterday was a bust for me surf-wise, as I was assigned on daddy duty. As Lucia, Chucho and I pushed off with the stroller, I got a bit of a mood changer in the form of a caress of onshore wind. You read that correctly, ONshore wind.
Sure enough, when we got to the water, there was texture on it and it was pretty much unsurfable. Pier looked doable, but there was a pack of rabid dogs on it. I held my fist up in the air in a triumphant Black Panther salute.
Today's session had better conditions in store, but not quite as good as I'd anticipated. I rode my beach cruiser to Harbor and was bummed when I saw nothing surfable. I rode on the beach, then onto The Strand and all the way to Wisconsin. I passed Wisconsin and stood there on the bike, mulling over my options.
I saw a couple of sets with one guy on too big a board trying to get in on them. It looked dumpy but makeable on the rights. Out thar!
Just as I paddled out, the current swept Too-Much-Foam Dude to the south and it was just me out there. Upon perching, I realized there were two other guys paddling out right behind me.
This is a phenomenon that surfers often bitch about. There is a long beach with waves for them to plunder, but people will paddle out where already are heads out rather than surf alone. I don't think it has anything to do with an innate fear of being alone that we as human beings share. They are just lazy and someone already did the homework for them, so they'll paddle out at where it's better than average and sit in a better spot.
I spent the next half-hour paddle-battling the two bros, and one caught a sick one after I'd JUST missed out on its immediate predecessor. Eventually, I caught an ok left, but I waited to long to snap and blasted the fins out the back in what I'm sure looked like a comical expression of rage.
I was sick of the inconsistency and shiftiness and went in, then walked about twenty minutes north to the pintail-shaped houses. It was empty and looked doable. I caught zero waves of note and went in after another half-hour...