I thought I would be the first to paddle out today, but it turned out that there was someone hidden that scurried out like the rodent he was. He was wearing booties and gloves and was fighting against a set that had made its way to the shallows, valiantly rowing away in tumultuous seas.
I didn't beat him out there, but I was close thanks to my fortunate timing, as evidenced by my dry hair paddle-out. I had paddled out twenty yards to his south, but we both ended up in the same spot thanks to the intense current by the pier.
I caught a right and did an ok turn, then got left behind by the wave. A couple of forgettable waves later, and the wave of the day came.
This older guy I said hi to had position, but he let it go and booties-and-gloves guy got it. He rode it all the way to the sand and bailed. He probably thought it wouldn't get any better than that and man was he right.
The older guy then paddled up to me and said, "Don't I know you?". I gave him a non-commital "Yeah I think I've surfed with you before". Then we realized we'd shared a really good day about three years ago in which I got swept down more than in any other session. He lives in Fallbrook and surfs about five or six times a month. I remembered he used to own a print shop. He asked me about real estate and we left it at that.
I caught a left which I barely got into and it rewarded me by bowling up and throwing over when I was about halfway back up the face, slamming me onto my back.
It got really crowded towards the pier. I bailed.
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