I am at least on the cusp of breaking my record for most trunk sessions in the US in a year. For this I credit the recent hot spell and my cousin's visit and subsequent surf lust. This last swell gets only partial credit because it was only a partial swell.
I had gone to Carlsbad Pipelines while waiting for a table at Las Olas and scored a small trail fin without having to buy the ridiculously-priced liquid-slicing triumvirate (yes, that word works as you can also buy politicians).
I installed the trailer fin as my center fin and started my walk.
The waves were waist- to chest-high, with some very rare toppers.
I had a nice pump-pump-bury-the-rail-slash sequence on one of them.
I caught a smaller left, did a nice turn (I saw the spray), then ended it by sliding the tail out in the foam, on purpose. I was trying to see how that smaller fin changed things. I flopped awkwardly off my board after my weighting and momentum had a disagreement. This would probably be my highest-scoring wave on the new board if judges had been watching. A solid 1.5, no question.
I was looking towards Pier and I saw a dolphin breach and fly over an oncoming wave. I can't say I've ever seen that from behind a wave before!
After this wave, I didn't catch much of anything, so I went in.
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