This combo swell surprised me. I thought there'd be something out there, but not like this.
The first winter swell of the fall season was upon us, and the crowd count reflected that. Not only were there close to three times as many heads out there as is normal, but there were TWO sweepers out. I don't think I surfed near a sweeper all summer.
Increased crowds, especially with a couple of sweepers peppered about, will lead to a stunted wave count for almost all involved.
With winter swells comes different rotation on the water's surface, which means upwelling. Upwelling is when water comes up from the depths of the ocean, cooling the water surface temperature. I should be donning my 4/3 by the end of next month.
I paddled out a ways south of Wisconsin, as I had a feeling I would not be swept north, but south, thanks to the predominant NW swell.
My first wave was the best of the day, and I got it within two minutes of perching. It was a nice juicy chest-high left. I pumped up and down twice, then up again and absolutely obliterated the section with a really squirrelly gouge. I felt the fins disengage, and if I'd leaned slightly more on my front foot, I know I could have slid the tail out.
My second wave was another left, but not very steep. I made it down the face and pumped gingerly, then really stomped on the gas when I saw a steep section. I was really happy with my tactical positioning and timing, but wasn't rewarded as the wave fizzled almost immediately.
I had a look at two set waves in a row, but they both closed out. Then, I had a look at a head-high left, but one of the sweepers snagged it ridiculously early and just. stood. there. All wave. Brutal.
I caught a right that had an open face once I swooped around its spilling section, but I slightly dug my inside rail. Not only did this decrease my speed, but it threw me off rhythmically and directionally, and I was forced to abort.
Later, I caught a left that was extremely racy. So much so, that I pumped up and down quickly on a sliver of a section. Upon descending, the section immediately adjacent to the one I victimized with my quick pump exacted its revenge by detonating on my board. I was shocked I was able to hang on AND keep my speed. It was all for naught though, as it closed out on me.
I got swept down to Wisconsin and the waves weren't really doing anything, so I caught one in.