Ali texted me earlier in the day that she wanted to surf D Street. I didn't hear back from her after responding, so I left her a text saying I'd be out at D at seven. She rolled up about ten minutes after I'd perched.
I caught a right and cut down the face, as the lip had crashed over prematurely. I was able to get some speed, then bottom-turn. Unfortunately, I attempted an off-the-top too laterally, and I faded off the back.
I caught a left and spent the majority of my ride struggling to stay on. Then, the last bit was on the inside, where the wave turned inside out. It ledged out, and I was able to keep going onto the flats. I bottom-turned up for couple of pumps, then gave in as the wave exploded.
I caught a right and had to hustle on it immediately. Just as I was setting my rail for the bottom turn, I got snapped in the back by the lip. I lurched forward and recovered, then jumped off my board.
My next wave was a left. I had to step lightly to stay on it, but I'm pretty happy with the end result, even if it is a no-make. I bailed on it after realizing my speed was fading and my angle of choice was wrong. There was very little chance of me making it and probably an equal chance of rolling an ankle or wrenching my knee.
Back to the rights I went. I paddled hard for one and spent more time focusing my body weight towards the front of the board then standing on it. By the time I'd popped up, the wave was all but over.
And right back to the lefts! Although does it really count if I faded almost immediately after popping up?
I let my enthusiasm get the best of me on my next wave and flamingo'd upon first ascent.
I settled down a bit on my next shot at a left and got an opportunity to do a slash with speed for my efforts. I kicked out immediately thereafter.
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