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Wednesday, October 31, 2012

10.26.12 MD's Redux w/ M-I-M

Mike and I hadn't surfed in some time, thanks to the dismal conditions, including the first rain in a long time.  This led to a lot of runoff, which is to be avoided so as to prevent getting nodal infections.  After enough time passed, we were at the ready at the first sign of rideable surf.

The waves were about shoulder-high on the sets and we were excited to paddle out again after a solid break.

My first wave was a nice steep left but unfortunately, it shut down on me right away.

I had a good look at a right and I had a long drawn-out bottom turn around the spilling foam, but there was no section of gold at the end of the foam trail, so I turned the long b-turn into an exaggerated kick-out.

My last wave worth mentioning was a sick one on which I bonked it ok after pumping like a madman, hearing a bit of the whoosh! of my spray hitting the back of the wave.

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