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Wednesday, October 31, 2012

10.17.12 The "Couldn't Have Been Worse than Yesterday" Sesh: M-I-M and I hit up D Street again

Despite how disappointed we'd been with Neptune's decision in doling out rank waves for us the previous day, we decided to give Him another chance.

The waves were a bit bigger than the previous day and we were amped, having expected the waves to be similar.

My first wave was a four-foot drop that was neither a left nor a right.  If you guessed a closeout, you are correct!  I bailed under the foam after kicking my board out.

My second wave was a right which at first glance, didn't look like much.  I stayed with it, and salivated when I realized the wave was going to steepen.  I glided up and milked the newfound energy in the wave.  The speed I was able to generate surprised me.  I did one pump and then one mini-pump.  I rose back up the face of the wave and was again surprised by how fast I was going.  This caused me to "misjudge" where on the wave I was going to hit it and ended up overshooting my normal target.  I ended up turning and sliding probably one fin out and ALMOST pulling it.  I ended up falling forward and that was that...

When my next wave, another right, rolled around, I was excited on my prospects of killing it.  Surely I was now prepared for the quick double-burst of speed, right?  Well, I never got my chance, as the lip crashed in front of my board, robbing me of crucial speed and turning my dreams of flying down the line into my living nightmare of flubbing into the foam.

My next wave was a welcome left, but it was just a quick turn into a floater on which I faded out the back.

I caught my second left of the day and managed to pump some speed out of the flat-ish wave.  I battled the curl for supremacy, but ended up yielding the wave to a guy coming on the much sicker-looking right.  I waved him on like the true bro that I am.

BOOM! Third left in a row, and I was on it.  I pumped down the nice steep face and thought the wave was going to close out, but realized about two seconds before pulling out the back that it was going to barrel.  I set up and leaned way forward, but the wave smacked me hard and pushed my open hand into the GoPro, causing me to lose to lose my balance.  I did get a sick view of the tunnel though!

My fourth left in a row was a steep and quick one.  I pumped down all the way, micro-pumped where the water goes from horizontal to slightly-sloped.  This allowed me enough speed to go up and SMASH the lip.  All of the glory came early in the maneuver, especially when you consider that I didn't land it.  I threw buckets of spray but leaned too far back and flailed backwards.

My last wave was anti-climactic.  It closed out and I pulled through it.  Mike and I went in, amped.

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