After nearly two weeks of not getting wet, I forsook my rule of waiting 48 hours after the last rain to surf. I was sick of waiting so I shot up to Oside on the first combo swell day that wasn't marred by bad winds or tides in a LONG time.
The waves looked good, and for the first time in a while, I got a surf boner on the way to the waves.
Harbor looked almost as good as I'd ever seen it. Unfortunately, it had the crowd to show for it. Who cares, I was ON IT!
I suited up and walked out to close to the middle of Harbor, lining up with the tall condo complex that is next to the freeway.
I immediately caught my first wave in ten days and it was a doozy. I pumped a couple of times, then laid into what was initially planned as a roundhouse cutty but turned into a rail bury cutty, followed by more pumping and then a smack. I don't recall what happened on the smack, but it was a no-make.
I caught a right about five minutes later which was fast. I made it around the initial section after some maneuvering, but there was no prize, it fattened up and I kicked the board up and sank underneath it.
The crowd was making things difficult. I was spoiled by quite a few sessions of not having to deal with crowds, just worrying about waves and their consistency. The waves were coming, but people tended to be on them.
About ten minutes later I caught a left and didn't have anything going on it. I kicked my board up and out and sank underneath again.
I was paddling back out when a guy asked me about my camera. I was telling him it works great, though the fish-eye lens tends to flatten curves, minimizing wave heights and messing with the viewers' perspective. A set wave came and a guy who should've caught it in front of me, didn't. I wheeled around and did my first two-paddle takeoff since Panama. It was an overhead wave (first one in probably three months)! I made the drop, but I cut too quickly towards the shoulder, leaving me in position for a cutty. I did an ok cutty on it and came back around, but the wave was done.
These are the only waves I can remember. No barrels, despite the low tide. If this had been a Monday, I would have had many more waves to report.
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