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Monday, April 30, 2012

4.18.2012 Grandview Goodness? EVENING SESH

I'd flirted with the idea of starting up on my evening seshes again, especially since the morning sessions have been less than stellar.

Today, I pulled the trigger and headed straight to Ponto, as it'd looked so good yesterday afternoon.

No dice.  It was choppy, crowded and there was nothing to be excited about wave-wise.

I checked Grandview and it had a nice left that turned almost too rippable (i.e. it got extremely racy on the edge of closing out).

There was a pack out there but I didn't care.  I was out there.

I'd brought my 5'11" Epoxy Merrick as my glorious DHD had a case of the curing SunRez.  I hadn't surfed this board since the previous summer, maybe longer, and was looking forward to being on it again.

As I was pulling my wetsuit up to my shoulders, a guy was walking back to his car and said, "Trying to squeeze in one more half-hour, huh?".  I replied, "Yep!".

I bounded down the stairs and jumped on my board to start paddling.  I didn't leash up as the tide was so high and the beach was so rocky, I figured I'd do it once I saddled up.

Immediately, the board felt SO small.  I found my paddling sweet spot on it and swung away.  My timing couldn't have been worse.  A five-wave set bore (lol) down on me and I was on duckdive duty.  By the fourth and fifth duckdive, I was really feeling it in my arms.

I saddled up a bit of inside of the crew, hoping to pick off a couple of nuggets.

I paddled for over ten waves and missed all of them.  The vast majority of them wouldn't let me in, though a couple had steepened to the point of having to go over the falls unless I pulled back.

FINALLY, I caught a left that let me in, but all I could do on it was shuffle up and soul arch.  WEAK!

The sun had submerged beneath the offshore fog and I was losing hope that this session would be worthwhile.

I caught another wave late, descending on the foam.  I call this the floater takeoff.  I laughed as I went down the wave and my fins struggled to find solid water in which to hold.

I decided to call it right then and bailed.

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