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Wednesday, March 7, 2012

3.2.2012 Big and Shifty 15th Street w/ Forrest

I met Forrest at his place around 6:10 in the morning and was surprised (perhaps by design?) by a companion of the opposite-gendered variety (!). I changed into my wetsuit in silence and we sneaked out his door.

Because of the combo swell, we thought Oside would be the call. We drove north from F's Tamarack pad and were shocked at how lame the surf looked. We forewent checking Harbor and headed south.

We took the 101 and the surf started getting bigger, the NW swell showing its dominance over the heavily-decayed SW.

As we came down the road from Powerhouse Park and passed the railroad tracks, I saw two solid looking lefts with no one on them. There was ONE guy out at 15th Street on a FRIDAY. There were waves, but we both predicted a current was making staying on one peak difficult.

I'd managed to forget my booties at Forrest's and the air was cold.

The paddle-out was nasty. I suffered through several ice cream headaches and one crocodile wrestle (where I'm fighting the board underwater, all the way to the surface) before making it out.

I paddled for a few but was too deep on several. A big set came, but I managed to make it under unscathed.

Finally, I caught a nice-sized, probably about head-high wave. It was a little late and the second wave of the set, so steep and frothy! I hooted, then did an initial pump that was only somewhat effective due to the aerated water. I pumped twice before frontside whirly-birding. Forrest claims I almost hit my head with my board but the footage seems to disprove this. I won't put the footage up as I'm making an effort to have relative bangers on here.

About twenty minutes later, I caught another left, slightly smaller, but more lined up. I did a mid-faced slash on the deep part of the wave, spun it all the way around and did a back-foot-heavy backside floater. I can't remember making it, and since falling seems to be my baseline these days, I'll assume I ate it. Unfortunately, I didn't push the record button hard/long enough. Only Jesus Himself has footage of it.

I also caught a right which I caught extremely late. I thought I was going to pearl, but I made it. I didn't let my detractors down, though, as I had my rolling-up-the-windows (doble-helice in Spanish) motion going in double-speed. I was about to harness the speed into a nice one-fin out bottom turn but all I had in front of me was a detonating close-out.

Forrest and I agreed that it sucked and we bailed.

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