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Sunday, January 8, 2012

1.7.2012 My First-Ever Session at Trails, with Forrest

Forrest had surfed Trails the preceding day and he'd stayed out for FOUR hours. He reported surfing 7-8' open faces with just a few people out. Meanwhile, I spent my surf-time begging Mike to paddle out with me into some empty and very-racy big waves. Mike wasn't in the mood and so I ended up not surfing.

Here is irrefutable video proof of the above taken by Missed-It Mike himself!

I told Forrest I wanted to go there and we loaded up the car and headed north.

We got off on the Basilone Road exit and zoomed through the entrance thanks to Forrest's California Day Pass. We drove to Trail 5 and put our gear on. We walked down and, though it looked a bit slow, I did see some steep ones out there and was excited to hit the water. We walked quite a ways north to counteract the effects of the expected longshore current.

The paddle-out was mellower than I expected, we had timed it well! The water was unexpectedly murky, but the weather being absolutely perfect still made the day amazingly scenic.

The waves were custom-made for a fish hybrid, its skatiness allowing for the rider to maneuver up and down the not-so-steep faces with ease. I, as usual, was on my DHD thruster but still had confidence I could snag a few.

A right came my way and I mini-pumped to wait for the wave to develop. Once it was ready, I went for a backhand smack. I went pretty vertical on it and I was rewarded with a non-make.

A SWEET left came and I was in a great spot for it, but Forrest was deeper and up and riding. It would have been a good one. Bummer.

I looked back and Forrest's board was gone. He swam in after it and I didn't see him again for a good twenty-five minutes.

I caught a right and attempted to hit it, but faded off the back.

A right came and I caught it and popped up. It was slow to develop, so I did a quick fade to set up for the eventual section. Once it did come, it shut down all at once.

About fifteen minutes passed before I got my next look at a catchable wave. It was a right. It looked like it might throw ever so slightly so I popped into my kneeboard stance and got covered up into the closeout. I got a nice little view out of it and a brief respite from the dullness.

Another right came and I smacked it ok. A guy dropped in on me down the line and it wasn't clear which way he was going, so I decided to cut the turn down. It work out though, because the wave didn't have much of a slope.

We made it in and when I took off my wetsuit, the small string attachment at the zipper came off. I'm hoping to fix this with a vinyl paper clip, otherwise I will have to remember to bring needlenose pliers with me or risk becoming a Neoprene prisoner.

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