Inexplicably, we ended up at Del Mar after a great session the previous day in Oceanside. 20th had small waves and they were sectioning off with a vengeance. The fog was thick and 15th was uncheckable. We tried N. Torrey Pines, but that was also too foggy.
My stoke level sank to the lowest it's been in months. I was hoping not to surf. The surf was bad and I was cold and wanted to rest my shoulder some more. Forrest rallied me and we ended up paddling out just north of 13th.
I caught a couple of shorebreak waves, and managed some power off the top of one, but I didn't make it.
I caught a long left and got my fins out the back after hitting the foam. My camera wasn't on, but I didn't make it anyways...
The only salvageable shot of the session was this one:
"If the best surfer in the water is the one having the most fun, Eddie P would be a promising amateur who eventually burns out and is forced to perform 'favors' for surf wax" -Anonymous
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Showing posts with label small waves. Show all posts
Showing posts with label small waves. Show all posts
Monday, January 2, 2012
Friday, November 25, 2011
11.19.2011 Red Frog Beach, SUP then Fish Sesh
On this day, the rash on my lower rib cage was bothering me. Thankfully, the surf was down. I did end up trying an SUP (Stand-Up Paddle board).
After at least a dozen and half bails, I was over it. It's a lot harder than it looks. I'd like to say that now I respect the sweepers, but by and large, my experience with them has been resentment towards them for being wave hogs. Let's just say I now respect them one modicum more than I did a week ago.
After I handed off the SUP for someone else to have a go, I got on a 6'3" fish, as I'd noticed some tight little right-hand barrels coming off the rocks. I got in position for two and they were markedly similar. I leaned forward hard and the fins and tail were pulled out of the water, making me pearl just as the lip was cascading over me.
I did catch a pretty sick right that I got to pump and throw a little spray on (twice), but that was as far as this session went.
After at least a dozen and half bails, I was over it. It's a lot harder than it looks. I'd like to say that now I respect the sweepers, but by and large, my experience with them has been resentment towards them for being wave hogs. Let's just say I now respect them one modicum more than I did a week ago.
After I handed off the SUP for someone else to have a go, I got on a 6'3" fish, as I'd noticed some tight little right-hand barrels coming off the rocks. I got in position for two and they were markedly similar. I leaned forward hard and the fins and tail were pulled out of the water, making me pearl just as the lip was cascading over me.
I did catch a pretty sick right that I got to pump and throw a little spray on (twice), but that was as far as this session went.
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