The tide was at its apex at about 2:30. I left the condo around three thinking with a slow-ish walk I'd get to enjoy it a little bit more hollow with a little less backwash.
My new neighbor offered me a ride in his SUV. I grabbed on to his roof rack and stepped on to his runner. I got there the fastest I ever have from my place. He has never surfed so I offered to teach him if he gets a board in exchange for his kindness.
Unfortunately, battling the wind's effect on my board at high speed was the most excitement I would experience during this session.
Every wave of mine was a closeout except for a couple.
I had another right which closed out right away. I went for an immediate floater so as to make something of it. I either put too much weight on my heels or my trajectory was bad from the get-go. I was riding on top of the back of the wave although I did feel my fins catch and I began turning with them. Had I been three inches closer to the beach I would have been able to say I successfully botched a backside taildrop 360 floater!
I pumped on a left and unfortunately didn't unweight my front foot when going for a lip tap (in preparation for gathering more speed for the upcoming section). I bogged hard and ended my ride prematurely.
My last wave was a left and I was able to pump and do a pretty good cutback/slash on it as it fizzled.
There was no magical ride on a wave today. And there was no magical ride back home.
My new neighbor offered me a ride in his SUV. I grabbed on to his roof rack and stepped on to his runner. I got there the fastest I ever have from my place. He has never surfed so I offered to teach him if he gets a board in exchange for his kindness.
Unfortunately, battling the wind's effect on my board at high speed was the most excitement I would experience during this session.
Every wave of mine was a closeout except for a couple.
I had another right which closed out right away. I went for an immediate floater so as to make something of it. I either put too much weight on my heels or my trajectory was bad from the get-go. I was riding on top of the back of the wave although I did feel my fins catch and I began turning with them. Had I been three inches closer to the beach I would have been able to say I successfully botched a backside taildrop 360 floater!
I pumped on a left and unfortunately didn't unweight my front foot when going for a lip tap (in preparation for gathering more speed for the upcoming section). I bogged hard and ended my ride prematurely.
My last wave was a left and I was able to pump and do a pretty good cutback/slash on it as it fizzled.
There was no magical ride on a wave today. And there was no magical ride back home.
