I didn't know where I could surf to take advantage of the surge in swell. It was the weekend, so Punta Roca was out. I didn't want to deal with a similar bump in crowds at La Bocana.
It was a massive high tide, definitely the biggest I've seen since having moved to El Salvador.
There were some lines out there and I ran to my peak. I surfed the entire session completely by myself.
I was having trouble getting anything going. I saw some right death pits swirling and I decided to tempt fate and head over there. I paddled and pulled back from close-outs for twenty minutes before I had a line on one. It seemed like a baby wave, but there was a double-up situation happening and I had to throw myself over the ledge as it jacked up. It broke hard and I did a set-up turn halfway up the face. I got all kinds of speed and really laid into the big mama section, successfully smashing it as the behemoth blasted down around it.
That turn was cathartic. I was bumming from having had a bad surfing experience despite being in south swell heaven and surfing by myself for so often.
I went in on my belly and tried my luck at the lefts on tap.
Not too long after paddling out again, I caught a juicy left. I thought it was going to section off and shut me out, but I managed to make it around. I wound up into a bottom turn and aimed for the corner, where the wall met the whitewater.
I laid back, my front hand feeling water with my ass joining in on the fun a short while later. I managed to pull it much to my ecstacy.
The rest of the session was less memorable. I think i went in four times total before paddling back out up the beach. There was one set wave that closed out the entire beach, something I hadn't seen in a long time. I managed to escape the session with less than my share of beatings. I lucked into several air pockets on some real nasty ones. I did have one that made my board shorts go almost all of the way off my ass though.
It was a massive high tide, definitely the biggest I've seen since having moved to El Salvador.
There were some lines out there and I ran to my peak. I surfed the entire session completely by myself.
I was having trouble getting anything going. I saw some right death pits swirling and I decided to tempt fate and head over there. I paddled and pulled back from close-outs for twenty minutes before I had a line on one. It seemed like a baby wave, but there was a double-up situation happening and I had to throw myself over the ledge as it jacked up. It broke hard and I did a set-up turn halfway up the face. I got all kinds of speed and really laid into the big mama section, successfully smashing it as the behemoth blasted down around it.
That turn was cathartic. I was bumming from having had a bad surfing experience despite being in south swell heaven and surfing by myself for so often.
I went in on my belly and tried my luck at the lefts on tap.
Not too long after paddling out again, I caught a juicy left. I thought it was going to section off and shut me out, but I managed to make it around. I wound up into a bottom turn and aimed for the corner, where the wall met the whitewater.
I laid back, my front hand feeling water with my ass joining in on the fun a short while later. I managed to pull it much to my ecstacy.
The rest of the session was less memorable. I think i went in four times total before paddling back out up the beach. There was one set wave that closed out the entire beach, something I hadn't seen in a long time. I managed to escape the session with less than my share of beatings. I lucked into several air pockets on some real nasty ones. I did have one that made my board shorts go almost all of the way off my ass though.
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