The ride down was brightened by what I'm christening as a Sequenox. This is the extremely rare instance in which a song on the GuyPod (set on shuffle) is followed by the song following it on a full-length album. I think the last time this happened was in late 2012 so it was really exciting.
I was tired of the crappy pointbreak and the more-miss-than-hit beachbreak, especially with this morning's dropping tide, so I opted to surf La Bocana.
I parked at the hotel, then walked to the water. They're doing some major roadwork in El Tunco proper and I was the beneficiary of the recently heavy equipment treaded dried mud. This turned to just mud as I got closer to the main drag and it took me a couple of tries to get out of it as I not-so-gingerly levitated on to the cement sidewalk.
I caught about seven waves in two hours, which is pretty good considering the crowd and the shiftiness.
My highlight was a head-and-a-half left on which board and I FLEW out the back as the wave closed out. It was so much fun riding something with that much power and a semblance of a line.
A smaller left preceded it and I got a top turn and a cutback in.
I had a great right which I smacked and on which I did a faded roundhouse cutback.
There were about twelve people out, including three ladies when I decided to bail. I caught one on the inside and pumped before I pussed out and kicked out. About fifteen feet to my right was a massive rock menacingly poking its nasty texture out.
I'd seen on social media that Pando and Chuleta's mom was in town from Maryland. I hadn't seen her since Pando's wedding. She was there at the hotel and I gave her a hug. We talked for about five minutes and I met her sister before I bailed.
I was tired of the crappy pointbreak and the more-miss-than-hit beachbreak, especially with this morning's dropping tide, so I opted to surf La Bocana.
I parked at the hotel, then walked to the water. They're doing some major roadwork in El Tunco proper and I was the beneficiary of the recently heavy equipment treaded dried mud. This turned to just mud as I got closer to the main drag and it took me a couple of tries to get out of it as I not-so-gingerly levitated on to the cement sidewalk.
I caught about seven waves in two hours, which is pretty good considering the crowd and the shiftiness.
My highlight was a head-and-a-half left on which board and I FLEW out the back as the wave closed out. It was so much fun riding something with that much power and a semblance of a line.
A smaller left preceded it and I got a top turn and a cutback in.
I had a great right which I smacked and on which I did a faded roundhouse cutback.
There were about twelve people out, including three ladies when I decided to bail. I caught one on the inside and pumped before I pussed out and kicked out. About fifteen feet to my right was a massive rock menacingly poking its nasty texture out.
I'd seen on social media that Pando and Chuleta's mom was in town from Maryland. I hadn't seen her since Pando's wedding. She was there at the hotel and I gave her a hug. We talked for about five minutes and I met her sister before I bailed.
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