I elected not to surf on the 23rd. The forecast/report seemed ok but Sunday was supposed to be better, with a stronger period.
I got there really early, before first light, thanks to having left the carport at 451. I finished off my Chikys and coffee, 'screened, and walked optimistically to the point. My pace slackened upon seeing the morning sickness on the water. The wind was offshore but it had apparently been blowing onshore not too far off shore.
There wasn't anything at the point so I resigned myself to the beachbreak.
The beachbreak looked AWESOME! Peaks up and down the beach. I excitedly slapped on my leash and jumped into the water.
I must have caught the tail end of the vibing tide, because it almost immediately turned into mushburgers with almost zero push. I would take off on waves and have a bitch of a time getting down the face. The slight offshore wind further befuddled my attempts but not nearly as much as the lack of push.
A logger paddled out to my west and then another guy who looked familiar from afar joined him. I paddled towards him and sure enough, it was Cuca. I hadn't seen Cuca in about fifteen years. He is now managing the house next door to the one in which I caught surf fever as a grom. That house rents for $500+ a night and he gets to keep 10%, which is great for down here. We talked story for a while and he went in, unimpressed with the conditions, but not before regaling me with tales of how good it had been the previous afternoon.
I stayed out longer and longer, hoping for something as the tide began to drop but it sucked beyond repair. When my eldest is out for spring break I will be surfing elsewhere...
I got there really early, before first light, thanks to having left the carport at 451. I finished off my Chikys and coffee, 'screened, and walked optimistically to the point. My pace slackened upon seeing the morning sickness on the water. The wind was offshore but it had apparently been blowing onshore not too far off shore.
There wasn't anything at the point so I resigned myself to the beachbreak.
The beachbreak looked AWESOME! Peaks up and down the beach. I excitedly slapped on my leash and jumped into the water.
I must have caught the tail end of the vibing tide, because it almost immediately turned into mushburgers with almost zero push. I would take off on waves and have a bitch of a time getting down the face. The slight offshore wind further befuddled my attempts but not nearly as much as the lack of push.
A logger paddled out to my west and then another guy who looked familiar from afar joined him. I paddled towards him and sure enough, it was Cuca. I hadn't seen Cuca in about fifteen years. He is now managing the house next door to the one in which I caught surf fever as a grom. That house rents for $500+ a night and he gets to keep 10%, which is great for down here. We talked story for a while and he went in, unimpressed with the conditions, but not before regaling me with tales of how good it had been the previous afternoon.
I stayed out longer and longer, hoping for something as the tide began to drop but it sucked beyond repair. When my eldest is out for spring break I will be surfing elsewhere...
No comments:
Post a Comment