This was my first session as an almost-middle-aged man. I used the remote on my bed to incline me, grabbed the railing on the side, and stepped into my slippers. I shuffled down to the stairs where my cane awaited.
I left earlier today and was rewarded with more time with which to surf. Unfortunately, it was a waste of time.
If I was lucky, I got to pump. I did get a short cover-up on my first wave but I felt like a contortionist trying to fit into the pit. It was a no-make but the highlight of the session. When the payoff for driving eighty minutes (plus twenty minutes of walking) lasts about a second it may be time to consider another line of jollies!
I also managed a gentle bonk on another left. I tried the shipwreck mostly, but because the waves were so gutless (a pansified 13-second period), if it broke out there it was SUPER fat and weak, and when it hit the inside it was a gross close-out.
I did give the incoming tide a shot at redemption for its underachieving swell cousin. I stayed out over two hours for science, to confirm the suckage.
I didn't bother driving down the next day. I am giving the ocean the silent treatment until it whispers the right sweet nothings into my ear.
I left earlier today and was rewarded with more time with which to surf. Unfortunately, it was a waste of time.
If I was lucky, I got to pump. I did get a short cover-up on my first wave but I felt like a contortionist trying to fit into the pit. It was a no-make but the highlight of the session. When the payoff for driving eighty minutes (plus twenty minutes of walking) lasts about a second it may be time to consider another line of jollies!
I also managed a gentle bonk on another left. I tried the shipwreck mostly, but because the waves were so gutless (a pansified 13-second period), if it broke out there it was SUPER fat and weak, and when it hit the inside it was a gross close-out.
I did give the incoming tide a shot at redemption for its underachieving swell cousin. I stayed out over two hours for science, to confirm the suckage.
I didn't bother driving down the next day. I am giving the ocean the silent treatment until it whispers the right sweet nothings into my ear.
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