Two roads diverged in a beach
and I-I took the one less traveled
and that has made all the difference
(from my recollection of an 8th grade Robert Frost poster)
I took the street side as I wasn't feeling the rocks jutting out along the shore. I wasn't sure when to go from littoral to sandbound so I guessed and was half-expecting someone to tell me not to go that way. It was a quarter-lot's width and there was a little cocktail/bar/surf rental shack. Sure enough, I heard a noise, looked up and it was that guy with whom I surfed a couple of sessions ago (or his brother, I can't tell them apart).
He said he'd be out soon and I said I'd probably miss him as I had a hard out.
I paddled out at the first sign of a decent wave and was surprised it didn't end in a horrendous closeout.
Long story short, I caught three waves in quick succession. On one I might have gotten tubed but I had frontside turns on the brain after having only turned backside all day. I did a sick superpump, on which it felt like the wave was amping to catapult me into the flats.
I managed to overturn™, which as I'm coining it, is to turn too hard for the section. I probably could have gotten away with a cutback but with the tide being this low I didn't even consider it a possibility.
My other memorable wave was a double-up and, though I didn't realize it at take-off I did spot it while descending. I prolonged the drop and bottom-turned hard. Once again the wave was weirdly too weak for my off-the-lip. I diagnosed it as a case of my being too early.
I went in and my car's clock read 802, 804 once I had changed into shorts and mounted up. The drive back was gross thanks to the roadwork and I was stopped at one place for nearly ten minutes. Thankfully I made it back just shy of 910 and avoided another browbeating!
and I-I took the one less traveled
and that has made all the difference
(from my recollection of an 8th grade Robert Frost poster)
I took the street side as I wasn't feeling the rocks jutting out along the shore. I wasn't sure when to go from littoral to sandbound so I guessed and was half-expecting someone to tell me not to go that way. It was a quarter-lot's width and there was a little cocktail/bar/surf rental shack. Sure enough, I heard a noise, looked up and it was that guy with whom I surfed a couple of sessions ago (or his brother, I can't tell them apart).
He said he'd be out soon and I said I'd probably miss him as I had a hard out.
I paddled out at the first sign of a decent wave and was surprised it didn't end in a horrendous closeout.
Long story short, I caught three waves in quick succession. On one I might have gotten tubed but I had frontside turns on the brain after having only turned backside all day. I did a sick superpump, on which it felt like the wave was amping to catapult me into the flats.
I managed to overturn™, which as I'm coining it, is to turn too hard for the section. I probably could have gotten away with a cutback but with the tide being this low I didn't even consider it a possibility.
My other memorable wave was a double-up and, though I didn't realize it at take-off I did spot it while descending. I prolonged the drop and bottom-turned hard. Once again the wave was weirdly too weak for my off-the-lip. I diagnosed it as a case of my being too early.
I went in and my car's clock read 802, 804 once I had changed into shorts and mounted up. The drive back was gross thanks to the roadwork and I was stopped at one place for nearly ten minutes. Thankfully I made it back just shy of 910 and avoided another browbeating!
No comments:
Post a Comment