The previous day's lower tide showed that El Palmarcito could bare some teeth with a little less water waterboarding it. I was close to paddling out since there was only one dude out but the wind kept getting worse and I was over it.
When I got to the sand this morning I thought it was flat. I kept walking because I thought I could paddle around some since I'd made the trek down. Eventually I saw some action at the point, but it was underwhelming.
I knew if I got lucky on the timing and if a slight surge in swell showed, I could get something rideable for more than five seconds. So I walked that way and paddled out to it.
There were two highlights. I caught a right that seemed to keep growing as I dropped down (not saying much as it was about three feet when I popped up). I turned up, then down, quickly, then again. I then got clotheslined by the lip I hadn't seen because of the glare.
My last wave was better and I actually completed my first turn in over a month, though the wave could have been more into me. It didn't push back as much as I'd hoped and while I successfully completed the maneuver it wasn't as satisfying as I would have liked.
It's interesting as a surfer how a wave can break a certain way and you can get a flashback to a certain session about which you'd forgotten. That happened to me on the way in; as the waves sloped a certain way, I was reminded of a day at the Del Mar beachbreak when I was in my early 20's.
When I got to the sand this morning I thought it was flat. I kept walking because I thought I could paddle around some since I'd made the trek down. Eventually I saw some action at the point, but it was underwhelming.
I knew if I got lucky on the timing and if a slight surge in swell showed, I could get something rideable for more than five seconds. So I walked that way and paddled out to it.
There were two highlights. I caught a right that seemed to keep growing as I dropped down (not saying much as it was about three feet when I popped up). I turned up, then down, quickly, then again. I then got clotheslined by the lip I hadn't seen because of the glare.
My last wave was better and I actually completed my first turn in over a month, though the wave could have been more into me. It didn't push back as much as I'd hoped and while I successfully completed the maneuver it wasn't as satisfying as I would have liked.
It's interesting as a surfer how a wave can break a certain way and you can get a flashback to a certain session about which you'd forgotten. That happened to me on the way in; as the waves sloped a certain way, I was reminded of a day at the Del Mar beachbreak when I was in my early 20's.
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