I hadn't surfed this, the beach on which I'd spent many weekends during my formative years, since 2005. We pulled up to a place so the girls could eat and I could paddle out.
The waves were as good as the breakfast! And the breakfast was bad... 😑 My wife, who has an addiction to salt in her food, said the eggs were too salty!
Although by myself, the session was barred from being a magical one due to the close-outs. I think I got one look at a wall, and it was too quick for a surfer of my caliber.
I went in earlier than I'd wanted, as I wanted to make sure the girls were happy; my biggest one was suffering from oversalted eggs.
The waves were as good as the breakfast! And the breakfast was bad... 😑 My wife, who has an addiction to salt in her food, said the eggs were too salty!
Although by myself, the session was barred from being a magical one due to the close-outs. I think I got one look at a wall, and it was too quick for a surfer of my caliber.
I went in earlier than I'd wanted, as I wanted to make sure the girls were happy; my biggest one was suffering from oversalted eggs.
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