I hadn't surfed in a few days as I was having a hard time finding a window in which I wasn't needed with the girls and a time outside of ten and two when the tide wasn't at either a peak or valley. I spent five hours yesterday traveling to and from Rivas, while doing some Christmas and grocery shopping as well as some odds and ends for our condo.
I thought today would be bigger than it was. When we pulled up it looked bad, California bad. I realized it was onshore, which is the norm almost everywhere else on the planet but the exception here.
The water was cold, as warm as San Diego gets in late summer, but still easily trunkable. This is likely a result of the onshore flow and the upwelling it generates.
While walking to my chosen peak I reminded myself to keep my right arm pinned back after exiting the bottom turn. I caught a left and did just that, came off the top and down so smoothly. It felt too easy after doing that one little thing differently.
I caught a right did a two-part bottom turn, then foam-climbed and back down with no issues.
I saw my wife with the dog and the girls and went in as I thought she needed help. She denied having needed help and I paddled out, caught two closeouts before getting lit up by sea lice. I decided sitting in the salt water, encouraging the spread/sting of the sea lice, wasn't worth it and went in.
I thought today would be bigger than it was. When we pulled up it looked bad, California bad. I realized it was onshore, which is the norm almost everywhere else on the planet but the exception here.
The water was cold, as warm as San Diego gets in late summer, but still easily trunkable. This is likely a result of the onshore flow and the upwelling it generates.
While walking to my chosen peak I reminded myself to keep my right arm pinned back after exiting the bottom turn. I caught a left and did just that, came off the top and down so smoothly. It felt too easy after doing that one little thing differently.
I caught a right did a two-part bottom turn, then foam-climbed and back down with no issues.
I saw my wife with the dog and the girls and went in as I thought she needed help. She denied having needed help and I paddled out, caught two closeouts before getting lit up by sea lice. I decided sitting in the salt water, encouraging the spread/sting of the sea lice, wasn't worth it and went in.
No comments:
Post a Comment