I'd taken the previous day off to go visit Ometepe in Lake Nicaragua with my family.
By the time the surf looked doable, I could see some heads in the water from about half a kilometer away. I thought I'd try to get close to my share since we were leaving soon and I'd only surfed three times the whole trip.
It's a close call from our rental whether to drive or walk. It's about a third of a mile down, but it is down a steep and loose rock/dirt road, some of it just a car-and-a-half-width-wide on some blind turns.
This beach is known for people having their stuff stolen, and had my sandals gone missing, I would have cursed my decision to walk with every step up the hill.
The parking lot was full and I was told to do a hairpin U-turn, about 195 degree turn down and then immediately up broken-up rock. It took me a few tries of rocking the 4WD Honda Element back and forth at the crux of the direction change to get it.
I hotfooted it down the very sharp and hot broken-up rock and made it to the sand before I'd realized I'd forgotten my ear plugs. Back up, then down I went. The main point wasn't breaking today either so around the rock bend I went again.
The beach scene was absolutely hopping. There is a beach bar set up and quite a few twenty-somethings were partying.
The head count in the water was high, over twenty.
I got several waves stolen from me, including one on which I got back-paddled by a guy who'd not fifteen minutes earlier bitched out a local for burning him on a wave. He must've misunderstood the idea behind pay it forward.
I eventually, after about forty minutes of doing the paddle/pull-back-because-etiquette-dictates-to-do-so/whirl around/paddle/duckdive/paddle circuit, I caught a couple and biffed both of them. One was a too-far-out-on-the-shoulder-with-no-speed cutty attempt and the other was a classic EddieP backwards splay on a top turn. I left the water super frustrated with the crowd and my performance, I gingerly stepped back to the Element, rocked back and forth several times to make it past the gnarly hairpin U-turn, and returned to our blacked-out rental (stay tuned for a full explanation).
By the time the surf looked doable, I could see some heads in the water from about half a kilometer away. I thought I'd try to get close to my share since we were leaving soon and I'd only surfed three times the whole trip.
It's a close call from our rental whether to drive or walk. It's about a third of a mile down, but it is down a steep and loose rock/dirt road, some of it just a car-and-a-half-width-wide on some blind turns.
This beach is known for people having their stuff stolen, and had my sandals gone missing, I would have cursed my decision to walk with every step up the hill.
The parking lot was full and I was told to do a hairpin U-turn, about 195 degree turn down and then immediately up broken-up rock. It took me a few tries of rocking the 4WD Honda Element back and forth at the crux of the direction change to get it.
I hotfooted it down the very sharp and hot broken-up rock and made it to the sand before I'd realized I'd forgotten my ear plugs. Back up, then down I went. The main point wasn't breaking today either so around the rock bend I went again.
The beach scene was absolutely hopping. There is a beach bar set up and quite a few twenty-somethings were partying.
The head count in the water was high, over twenty.
I got several waves stolen from me, including one on which I got back-paddled by a guy who'd not fifteen minutes earlier bitched out a local for burning him on a wave. He must've misunderstood the idea behind pay it forward.
I eventually, after about forty minutes of doing the paddle/pull-back-because-etiquette-dictates-to-do-so/whirl around/paddle/duckdive/paddle circuit, I caught a couple and biffed both of them. One was a too-far-out-on-the-shoulder-with-no-speed cutty attempt and the other was a classic EddieP backwards splay on a top turn. I left the water super frustrated with the crowd and my performance, I gingerly stepped back to the Element, rocked back and forth several times to make it past the gnarly hairpin U-turn, and returned to our blacked-out rental (stay tuned for a full explanation).
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