I almost didn't surf today. It looked pretty bad and just as I was turning the bike around to head home, a set came. Compared to its underachieving predecessors, it looked marvelous.
I paddled out right where I saw the set. I was all alone.
The tide was low and the wind was picking up, a bad combination for a beachbreak.
I caught two waves of note. The first was a left on which I got some speed but not enough to make it around light-years ahead of me section. The second was a successful connection, but just as I was going for one last superpump before attacking the closeout section the bottom fell out from under the wave and I pearled. I hit the bottom pretty softly, but it was jarring to feel it, as I had not expected it.
I paddled out right where I saw the set. I was all alone.
The tide was low and the wind was picking up, a bad combination for a beachbreak.
I caught two waves of note. The first was a left on which I got some speed but not enough to make it around light-years ahead of me section. The second was a successful connection, but just as I was going for one last superpump before attacking the closeout section the bottom fell out from under the wave and I pearled. I hit the bottom pretty softly, but it was jarring to feel it, as I had not expected it.
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