I was greeted with a couple of dozen bobbing heads whose bodies were enveloped in black neoprene.
I was on my seldom surfed 5'11" CI thruster. I made a point to go a little away from most of the crowd.
The crowd was made up of some familiar faces. From sessions past I spotted smily mustachioed Filipino dude and Peroxide Pat, whose bright hair reflects glare rivaling that of the sun.
I managed to snag my share of waves.
I got a left on which I made it around the initial section, but when I bottom-turned I had a brain fart and quickly ran out of wave. I was about twenty percent of the way through the turn when I was up and over.
I caught a couple of other lefts which either closed out on me or I immediately kicked out on, not in the mood for a no-way-out crab grab barrel.
The absolute highlight came on an A-Frame nugget. I was a little too deep on the left, so I went right. I had a glorious view of the wave opening up to me. I rose and absolutely smashed the lip. I got hung up on it for so long I thought I was going to fade off the back, but I made it back down, out of runway.
After about a half-hour (the surf report said the water temp was 62, which seems about three degrees too low), I got cold and bailed.
I was on my seldom surfed 5'11" CI thruster. I made a point to go a little away from most of the crowd.
The crowd was made up of some familiar faces. From sessions past I spotted smily mustachioed Filipino dude and Peroxide Pat, whose bright hair reflects glare rivaling that of the sun.
I managed to snag my share of waves.
I got a left on which I made it around the initial section, but when I bottom-turned I had a brain fart and quickly ran out of wave. I was about twenty percent of the way through the turn when I was up and over.
I caught a couple of other lefts which either closed out on me or I immediately kicked out on, not in the mood for a no-way-out crab grab barrel.
The absolute highlight came on an A-Frame nugget. I was a little too deep on the left, so I went right. I had a glorious view of the wave opening up to me. I rose and absolutely smashed the lip. I got hung up on it for so long I thought I was going to fade off the back, but I made it back down, out of runway.
After about a half-hour (the surf report said the water temp was 62, which seems about three degrees too low), I got cold and bailed.
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