My wife was still out of town, and since I'm rudderless in her absence, I decided to kill some time until her arrival with a surf session.
Today I had no liquid fantasies as to what would await me upon my eyes meeting the crystalline (okay, maybe muted green) ocean. My expectations were extremely low, and as such, anything seemed like a gift. It's akin to what an East Coast surfer must experience on a daily basis outside of hurricane season.
I nailed it! The waves were maybe 3' on the sets and VERY inconsistent. I had so many pump-to-fades. The set waves that did come through were suffering from the section-off-every-ten-yards effect (except it was almost always five yard intervals today) Oside has been sloughing through for weeks now.
WHERE IS THAT CLEANUP SWELL AND/OR STORM THAT WILL CREATE SANDBARS? I don't know the answer. My plans is to go to Sunday service at one of the seven churches within walking distance and ask God Himself. Before that, though, I have to figure out which religion is the correct one.
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