I'd made plans to surf with someone this morning and received a text saying they weren't feeling well. Mike was on his way to Mountain View for some work stuff, and Forrest isn't a fan of surfing early, especially when it's cold.
I pulled up to D and checked it. I immediately saw a set break and realized I needn't check it any longer. I walked down the stairs and marveled at there being nary a surfer in the water. It would've made for a really boring Twilight Zone episode.
I paddled out with no issue, except for the slightest twinge of an ice cream headache.
Since I was all alone, I would have my pick of the waves. Where were GMIMITW and Incomplete Neoprene Puzzle Guy?
My first two waves had nice steep drops followed by too racy shoulders. I pulled through on both.
I caught a nice left on which I pumped. I was racing the curl the whole first two-thirds of the wave when I finally saw my opportunity to smack it. By the time I got there, the cascading lip grabbed a hold of my fins and it turned from a snap into a floater of sorts. I had no speed and fell pretty much straight down, thanks to my inertia. Had I had some speed I could have used that to project onto the flats.
A macker of a left came and I had to hustle. I superpumped a couple of times and spotted what appeared to be a bowly inside section. I tucked in as much as I could given where I was on the wave and received a lip to the head. Taylor Knox would have claimed this as a barrel, but I know better. This was maybe a head dip. The chandeliering lip drove into my head and I did my best to disperse the energy evenly onto my board. It finally released me from its grasp.
It was at this point that the aforementioned Gentile Most Interesting Man in the World blessed me with his presence, but he appeared to be alone. He of course paddled right to me. This is extremely annoying when the whole beach is available to him and he could find his own peak. Thankfully, he thought better of it and bailed.
I caught a right on which I got one off-balance smack. I got hung up on the lip and made it. It felt pretty good but the footage was bollocks.
GMIMITW hadn't caught squat fifteen minutes into his session, which is rare for him. He's usually frothing and going on just about everything. The waves were turning a mean shade of ugly, thanks to the dropping tide and the kicked-up wind.
I was sitting pretty deep when a bomb came through. There was a slightly smaller wave in front of it. I seized the opportunity at a chance for glory or a massive tumble. I paddled for it and just as I popped up felt the thing turn inside out. I somehow managed to drop in and I got a great view of the mackers combining forces and throwing out behind me. It was probably a 7'.
I paddled out yet again but the waves got worse and worse. I rode one in on my belly and called it a session.
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