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Sunday, August 12, 2012

8.9.12 Beat-The-Heat PM SESSION at D Street

The heat was driving me crazy and I was wanting to get some nice cold water on me to cool down.  I was initially going to go to George's, but at the last minute, decided to turn left onto the San Elijo towards D Street.

I figured the surf would be rank, so I brought the fish with me.

I parked a bit far due to summer parking issues and made my way down.  I ambled around the lifeguard tower and was shocked at how crowded it was.  This was without a doubt the most crowded I'd ever seen D Street.  It looked like a more spread-out Lowers.

The waves were SO much better than I'd expected, and I immediately longed for my DHD.  Oh well, at least I was out here.  I was trunking it to maximize the cooling effect.

My first wave was a right.  I descended it, rose up to the shoulder and leaned hard into a cutty, just like I would've on the DHD.  I turned, my board didn't, and I faceplanted.

There were so many rippers out.  A lot of groms were out.  I witnessed a pre-pubescent grom burn a guy a couple of years older than me on the wave of the day, forcing the middle-aged man to straighten out on a wave he had indubitably waited a long time for.  The grom's friends' high-pitched squeals egged him on.  I found it distasteful.

The sun was beginning to fade toward the horizon, and I still had not caught a good wave.  The rabid pack was making things very difficult.  I saw a guy super-pumping with every pump, boosting off a backside ramp.  It was the biggest backside boost I'd seen in a long time, possibly this decade.  He didn't land it though, but he styled throughout his flight.

I paddled a bit farther out than most of the pack and within fifteen minutes, I found my chance.  I paddled hard for it and noticed a guy to my inside paddling too.  I made eye contact with him and let him know as much as I could with my eyes, that he should not keep paddling for the wave.  He finally acquiesced and I took off on my wave of the day.  I pumped a few times, then went for a bank off the top.  Still being used to my shortboard, I leaned too far back while balancing on top of the wave.  I flopped onto my back.

I went out for one last wave before I decided to call it a day.  I was beginning to get chilly and was pleased at no longer being sticky.

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