This morning I got up to Oceanside at about 7. I had checked the buoys and they made it look like the waves had died off a bit, so I thought it would be less walled than yesterday. As I was parked at Wisconsin Street. I saw a guy get a clean barrel and make it out. I was on it!
While suiting up, I saw the same guy get two more. I started frothing a bit and got down there. I saw a double-up in the shorebreak and in my haste, I ran to do a skim-paddle takeoff and smashed my heel against a cobblestone. OUCH! While paddling, I noticed a rip developing right in Barrel Alley and my chances for a dry barrel drying up with it. I dry-haired it and caught my first wave within about eight minutes of parking myself up there.
It was a nice wave and I probably could've gotten barreled on it had I stalled upon takeoff. I had some speed going and I began to lay into a roundhouse and noticed a chop. I waited it out and then put all my pressure on my backside rail, pivoted and hit the whitewash smoothly. Not a reo roundhouse, but a roundhouse nonetheless, SUCCESS!
Unfortunately, this was the only wave I would catch that is worth writing about. I spent the rest of the session drifting towards the pier and then getting caught in a rip. By the time I noticed, I was two-thirds of the pier out to sea! I paddled and paddled and made it back, but the tide was making the waves so fat...!
No question about, tomorrow I will be on it earlier and stalling for those barrels.
"If the best surfer in the water is the one having the most fun, Eddie P would be a promising amateur who eventually burns out and is forced to perform 'favors' for surf wax" -Anonymous
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