The wind was blustering and it made for a bad combo with the smaller waves. Smaller waves, generally speaking, have a tighter window during which you can catch waves and getting hung up on the lip robs you of the already low percentage you have to make these poorly angled waves.
I caught three waves.
On my first, a left, I pearled on a pump. While I didn't get hung up on the lip at takeoff I managed to put myself in that position and my nose went pearl diving.
I was in position for a juicy right. I got hung up on the lip and airdropped. While I was airborne, I saw a dark local grom bail and leave his board out (I presume he feared I would smash into him as it was tight). He needn't had worried, I stomped it and for my reward I was presented with a section folding over in front of me cutting me off from the rest of the wave. To boot, the guy who'd last given me a ride in his golf cart had gone and had reaped the best section of the wave.
Chucho was being good on the sand, only barking when people came in from the surf.
I got another left. I made it around the initial cascade of a section but what lay before me beyond that was too fat. I managed some pumps and a half-hearted bonk but that was it.
The dog was really running around now so I went in to chill with him hoping the drop in tide would make it get better. We messed around on the beach for about a half-hour and it got even worse. I told myself if the crowd count got to a -3 (meaning three more surfers left the water than entered it in a specific span of time) I would paddle out again. It peaked at a -1 and we bailed.
I caught three waves.
On my first, a left, I pearled on a pump. While I didn't get hung up on the lip at takeoff I managed to put myself in that position and my nose went pearl diving.
I was in position for a juicy right. I got hung up on the lip and airdropped. While I was airborne, I saw a dark local grom bail and leave his board out (I presume he feared I would smash into him as it was tight). He needn't had worried, I stomped it and for my reward I was presented with a section folding over in front of me cutting me off from the rest of the wave. To boot, the guy who'd last given me a ride in his golf cart had gone and had reaped the best section of the wave.
Chucho was being good on the sand, only barking when people came in from the surf.
I got another left. I made it around the initial cascade of a section but what lay before me beyond that was too fat. I managed some pumps and a half-hearted bonk but that was it.
The dog was really running around now so I went in to chill with him hoping the drop in tide would make it get better. We messed around on the beach for about a half-hour and it got even worse. I told myself if the crowd count got to a -3 (meaning three more surfers left the water than entered it in a specific span of time) I would paddle out again. It peaked at a -1 and we bailed.
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