I checked this blog and the last time I surfed twice in one day was the first time I surfed Panga Drops, a mere 1346 days ago!
I paddled out with aching muscles given my extended session and wave count this morning and I had the opposite experience. I paddled around, paddled around and was beaten out by others in better position time and time again. The peak would shift, and someone else would be in a better spot. It became maddening.
Eventually, I caught a left and had a nice bottom turn but was beginning to fade off the wave. I then thought I had a chance at reconnecting but the backwash hit and ended my ride.
I looked back and thought about paddling back out but a set came and I was OVER IT!
I paddled out with aching muscles given my extended session and wave count this morning and I had the opposite experience. I paddled around, paddled around and was beaten out by others in better position time and time again. The peak would shift, and someone else would be in a better spot. It became maddening.
Eventually, I caught a left and had a nice bottom turn but was beginning to fade off the wave. I then thought I had a chance at reconnecting but the backwash hit and ended my ride.
I looked back and thought about paddling back out but a set came and I was OVER IT!
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