I went to Rivas and had to abort my mission to get something notarized as I'd neglected to remember to bring my passport. I dutifully went to the grocery store and came back. When I dropped off an item our neighbors needed, I was propositioned for a session by the NSR photog. He said he really needed someone to shoot and there wasn't anyone out.
It was midday, the surf sucked, but I acquiesced. I lathered on sunscreen and we pedaled down to Colorado, which looked absolutely abysmal. A bicycling groove of grommets, coming from Panga Drops, gave us the report: "It sucked".
I had still not done a turn on the Tomo since Oceanside. I forgot how nicely it goes on the flat spots, perfect for a day like today.
My first wave was a pumpathon to oblivion. My board went really well and did great paddling into the waves despite the 40+mph gusts.
My second wave was a pumpfest, and I got a nice squirt through the tail (heterosexually speaking) and found something to bounce off of. Unfortunately, I didn't rotate my head and shoulders and I bailed.
My next wave of note was a sick one. I dropped in late, and as a result, blind. The breaking wave around me was throwing water that the wind was accelerating into my face. Once I opened my eyes, I was shocked at the section presented to me.
I went for a hit/floater and was abruptly shoved off the back by the wind.
I sat for what seemed like forever. I was getting cold and my teeth began to chatter. I didn't know how many more shots Brian needed and so when a biggish wave came I went. The section was one I probably couldn't have made if I'd managed to not get hung up on the lip. It looked like this:
Spoiler alert I got thwomped on to my back and the rest of the wave ate me up!
I know, it looks like I was killing it out there. It just shows you the power of the still frame in an action setting!
Happy Birthday to my uncle Brad, who is celebrating fifty years of being an adult today, at least chronologically speaking! 😂
It was midday, the surf sucked, but I acquiesced. I lathered on sunscreen and we pedaled down to Colorado, which looked absolutely abysmal. A bicycling groove of grommets, coming from Panga Drops, gave us the report: "It sucked".
I had still not done a turn on the Tomo since Oceanside. I forgot how nicely it goes on the flat spots, perfect for a day like today.
My first wave was a pumpathon to oblivion. My board went really well and did great paddling into the waves despite the 40+mph gusts.
My second wave was a pumpfest, and I got a nice squirt through the tail (heterosexually speaking) and found something to bounce off of. Unfortunately, I didn't rotate my head and shoulders and I bailed.
My next wave of note was a sick one. I dropped in late, and as a result, blind. The breaking wave around me was throwing water that the wind was accelerating into my face. Once I opened my eyes, I was shocked at the section presented to me.
I went for a hit/floater and was abruptly shoved off the back by the wind.
I sat for what seemed like forever. I was getting cold and my teeth began to chatter. I didn't know how many more shots Brian needed and so when a biggish wave came I went. The section was one I probably couldn't have made if I'd managed to not get hung up on the lip. It looked like this:
Spoiler alert I got thwomped on to my back and the rest of the wave ate me up!
I know, it looks like I was killing it out there. It just shows you the power of the still frame in an action setting!
Happy Birthday to my uncle Brad, who is celebrating fifty years of being an adult today, at least chronologically speaking! 😂
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