This time our timing coincided with the peak of the high tide which is usually a bummer. The fat waves, and in this area of the world, the offshore winds, do their best to keep you sliding down only the backs of the waves while the wind cackles as it pelts you with stinging water needles as if to further mock you for your failure.
We got there and there were some makeable waves visible from the road. I got a little excited but knew better than to get overamped. The parking area was the fullest I'd seen it in my three trips there. I paddled out and felt the gutlessness of the waves wash over me with each duckdive.
I lost several waves to perfectly positioned locals on logs. I let one go ahead of me even with my better positioning on a couple of waves as they were not looking/caring to see if anyone else was outside of them and just dropping in.
After a couple of almosts, it took me easily a half-hour to catch my first wave. It was a left and shut down almost immediately.
I caught a right which had a little bit of a line to it, but it was small and fat and didn't let me go too far.
I caught an ok left and got one pump in, which upped my amp factor. I was about halfway in and considered going in but I decided to go for one more.
About fifteen minutes later, I got my chance on a left. I overpaddled for it, dropped in, and began swooping pumps. My rented board, a 5'11" Pyzel, felt really loose under my feet. The end of the wave approached after about four pumps and I swooped down and went more vertical than I've been known to. I felt a tweak in my left hammy as I snapped. The snap felt great other than the tweaked hamstring; I had a great angle with speed. I found a way to flounder about two-thirds through the maneuver and I fell off my board. I rode in on my belly and found my girls as I tried not to bend my knee too much for fear of more hammy pain.
Here's to hoping an elusive solid night's rest is enough to make the tweak dissipate!
We got there and there were some makeable waves visible from the road. I got a little excited but knew better than to get overamped. The parking area was the fullest I'd seen it in my three trips there. I paddled out and felt the gutlessness of the waves wash over me with each duckdive.
I lost several waves to perfectly positioned locals on logs. I let one go ahead of me even with my better positioning on a couple of waves as they were not looking/caring to see if anyone else was outside of them and just dropping in.
After a couple of almosts, it took me easily a half-hour to catch my first wave. It was a left and shut down almost immediately.
I caught a right which had a little bit of a line to it, but it was small and fat and didn't let me go too far.
I caught an ok left and got one pump in, which upped my amp factor. I was about halfway in and considered going in but I decided to go for one more.
About fifteen minutes later, I got my chance on a left. I overpaddled for it, dropped in, and began swooping pumps. My rented board, a 5'11" Pyzel, felt really loose under my feet. The end of the wave approached after about four pumps and I swooped down and went more vertical than I've been known to. I felt a tweak in my left hammy as I snapped. The snap felt great other than the tweaked hamstring; I had a great angle with speed. I found a way to flounder about two-thirds through the maneuver and I fell off my board. I rode in on my belly and found my girls as I tried not to bend my knee too much for fear of more hammy pain.
Here's to hoping an elusive solid night's rest is enough to make the tweak dissipate!
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